Cactus and Succulent Growing Calendar

This is an example of my general schedule for my cacti and succulents. You can adapt this sort of schedule for yourself, depending on your region and taking into account temperature, light, and whether your plants need to be indoors part of the time.

This doesn’t include mesembs, like Lithops or Pleiospilos, which have a separate growing calendar! 

I also go by three seasons around here, not four. Don’t judge me, I live in San Diego! 

Spring

I consider my growing calendar to start in spring, not at the beginning of the calendar year. 

Around the March equinox is a good benchmark to really start paying attention to your plants to decide if they’re waking up. 

I look for nights to be routinely in the 40s, and days to be 60 – 70 at a minimum. Early spring is touchy for temperatures, especially if you live further north than I do. 

I also look for some of my “early sign” plants: species that bloom or show obvious growth as they come out of dormancy. Some good candidates include Sulcorebutia arenacea, or Mammillaria mystax, as they will both bloom in late winter or early spring. 

February

A few species will bloom in late winter or early spring, and they’re often your signals that the plants are starting to wake up. Mammillaria as a genus often will begin to bloom earlier than other species, and over the years I often see my hardier Mammillaria blooming far earlier than the rest. 

As far as succulents go, you’ll see Aloe Hybrids looking phenomenal right around now. Your Dudleyas should be at least beginning to throw out bloom stalks, if not in full bloom already. Pachypodiums may start blooming by now, before they’ve even leafed out. 

Water and Fertilizer?

If I decide to water anything in February, I don’t use any fertilizer. The winter growers are beginning to wind down, and any early spring plants that are waking up aren’t quite ready for food yet. 

March

When true spring really makes an appearance – usually. Risk of frost is gone, and nights are rarely colder than 40F. Days start to get longer, and after the equinox, daytime hours are longer than night. This wakes up most cacti, and signals to winter growing succulents (like Euphorbia) it’s time to sleep. 

Many early waking cacti begin to bloom in earnest around now. My Astrophytum often begin to bloom around this time, as do my Ariocarpus. Some Stapeliads start to bloom around now, but not all. 

Water and Fertilizer? 

This is the time of year I consider the first batch of fertilizer. I do water at least once in March, especially if there’s a few days in the 70s. I only fertilize after I’ve watered at least once, and very weak – regularly, I fertilize at half strength, but for the first feed of the year I go half of that.

April

It should be warmer now, and for me, often in the 50s at night. Freezing temperatures are rare, although rain might be a regular occurence. The biggest challenge here is balancing water and fertilizer against cloudy skies or rain. In-ground plants usually do just fine, but potted plants can easily get and stay too soggy and rot. 

Echinopsis species and their hybrids should start blooming around now, producing big showy flowers that draw eyes. Aeoniums and other winter growing succulents will start to go dormant if it’s a warm spring. 

Water and Fertilizer? 

Very touch and go, and usually only once or twice if it’s cloudy. I may start fertilizing every other watering if the weather warms up, especially with sun in the afternoons. If you’re not experiencing temps above 70F, skip the fertilizer.

May

Spring has sprung, and it’s prime growing season for most cacti. You’ll see Astrophytum blooming like crazy around now, and your Echinopsis should be putting on quite a show. This is the perfect time of year to start repotting any cacti that need it or propagate any pups. 

Your Adeniums and similar winter-dormant species should really be waking up now and putting out new leaves. My Pachypodiums all throw out leaves by mid-May, and my Dudleyas are typically in full bloom and sprawling. If it’s a mild spring, with cloudy mornings, some rain, and sunny afternoons, your Dudleya and similar winter succulents will keep growing. 

Water and Fertilizer? 

By now it’s usually warm enough to begin watering regularly, and if we have sunny afternoons I water every week. I use fertilizer nearly every watering. 

Sowing Seeds 

February and March are perfect for sowing plants that need a little time before they can be moved outside. It also works well for the more cold-hardy or fast growing species that don’t mind chilly nights (as I move them out within 1 to 2 weeks of germination). You’ll need grow lights, or a very bright south-facing window to start most. My usual early spring seeds to start are: 

  • All aloe species 
  • Gymnocalyciums 
  • Ferocactus 
  • Astrophytum asterias 
  • Echinocereus 

Sowing Seeds

April and May are prime time for seed sowing for me, as it’s a rush to get seedlings started and in the greenhouse before it gets too warm and melts them before they can harden off. I don’t leave seedlings out in the rain, but rainy days are fantastic for the first couple days my seedlings are in the greenhouse. Within a week, they’re usually hardy enough to tolerate the 90F temperatures my greenhouse reaches during the day this time of year. I prioritize sowing these species:

  • All Astrophytum 
  • Any new-to-me seed species 
  • Coryphantha
  • Rebutia and Sulcorebutia 
  • Ariocarpus 
  • Notocactus 

Summer

Summer is the prime growing season for most cacti, and can be ideal growing for some succulents – but not all. 

I break summer into “early” and “late”. Early summer is the best of times for nearly all of my cacti and succulents. Everything is growing well, it’s almost impossible to overwater things, the cacti are all blooming, all my seedlings are thriving, and I start thinking I need more plants. 

Late summer is the stressful time. It’s hot, often 100F+ even outside of the greenhouse, watering gets complicated, I start losing seedlings, and then the pests start waving at me from random corners. I often question my life choices around this time of year. Fortunately, it’s short lived. 

June

Sometimes it’s hot, sometimes it’s just warm, and sometimes it’s cloudy for weeks at a time. Blooming continues for most cacti, and the longer days encourage just about every cactus species to grow. 

Apart from Aeoniums, which are distinctly winter growers, most commonly available succulents will be looking their best around now. Most plants are getting as much growth in as possible while conditions are nice, especially if there’s any early summer rains. 

Water and Fertilizer?

This is the time of year I feed my cacti and succulents every time I water, and I water when things get dry. In my greenhouse, this is usually about once a week, although if it’s been cloudy most of the time it can be as little as just once for the entire month (as was the case in 2023). 

July

The beginning of the hotter months, July isn’t usually too bad – but if you aren’t prepared, cacti and succulents can quickly burn. Days are long, nights are warm, and your cacti are often still putting in plenty of growth. Copiapoas,  Astrophytum,  Gymnocalycium,  and Coryphantha are notable genera that bloom through this month.

This is the beginning of The Hard Times for most of my succulents, although the Adeniums,  Pachypodium, and similar species should be thriving. Some stapeliads start to bloom around now. 

Water and Fertilizer? 

I may continue to feed with every watering through July, but by the end of the month I start to dial it back. For Copiapoa and slower growing species, I stopped feeding them in June. I try to water about once a week.

I do continue to feed my Stapeliads, which encourages blooming. 

August

Most often the hottest time of the year, and my least favorite. Days average 90 – 100F, and some nights stay 75+. Everything is on the struggle bus. If I keep up on watering, the more hardy cacti will continue to bloom, but most are just hanging on. 

Most succulents need at least some supplemental shade at this point. This is when I’ll just leave pieces of shade cloth covering my soft succulents in the front yard, and add an extra layer even in the greenhouse during heat waves. If it’s really hot, I’ll splash my Dudleyas, although usually they should be dry through summer. 

Water and Fertilizer? 

I try to water every week, but I don’t always. I stop fertilizing as giving both water and food with heat & sun can cause cacti to stretch even in mid-summer.

The stapeliads continue to get fed – and often start blooming around now. 

September

It used to be that this was a month that distinctly got cooler compared to August, but lately it’s just been extra-long August. Fortunately, shorter days means reduced risk of sun scorch, and it’s easier to keep the thirstier species happy with water. 

For my succulents, this is when they like the most water. They’ve been struggling through July & August, and by September I have to really drench even my in-ground plants to help them survive. I usually do this with a sprinkler in the evening to allow water to really soak the ground and give the plants time to drink. 

Water and Fertilizer? 

I might fertilize my Euphorbias in the greenhouse at this stage, as some of them may start waking up.

The Stapeliads are often still blooming, so they continue to get food. I start watching my other winter growers for signs of waking up, but if they are, I don’t fertilize them yet. 

Sowing Seeds

I continue to sow seeds as long as I have space in the greenhouse and the daytime highs aren’t over 85F. Around now, I start prioritizing my hot weather lovers. Usually, it’s large quantities of my known successes, and many of my own seed, as I know they’ll survive and thrive. 

  • Astrophytum capricorne
  • Echinocereus reichenbachii
  • Notocactus 

Sowing Seeds

I don’t start any cactus seeds in late summer at all, but starting in August and September is when I begin sowing my mesembs and winter growers. 

Euphorbia obesa is about the only Euphorbia I’ve grown from seed, and I tend to start it indoors around now. 

Winter

Winter is when your Euphorbias and most succulent species will look their best. San Diego’s winter is very short, but it’s just cold enough to encourage winter dormancy or winter growth in the cold-loving species.

Much like summer, there’s early winter and late winter. Early winter is often struggle season for just about everything: days are hot, but getting shorter, and nights are cooling down. Some cacti go dormant based on daylight hours, while others wait for cold temperatures. 

The succulents are either preparing for winter dormancy (your leafy Adeniums, for example) or are just starting to wake up and get excited about life again (like Aeoniums). You should avoid repotting any winter-dormant species, but starting early in the season is when you should prioritize repotting your winter growers. 

October

The last couple years, October has been a strangely warm month for us in San Diego. Even so, the shorter days and colder nights start encouraging the cacti to go dormant. 

Cooler nights and shorter days wake up many succulents, and Euphorbias often start showing signs of life again. Your Dudleyas will probably continue to look sad for a few more months, but the other Echeveria plants and their cousins will start perking up. 

Water and Fertilizer?

Time to cut back on watering your cacti to about half as often as you were doing before (in my case, no more than every other week), but at the same time, selectively begin watering the winter growers more. 

Aloes appreciate some extra water and fertilizer around now, and so should your haworthias and gasterias. 

November

The real beginning of “winter” in my greenhouse, this is usually when I stop watering most of my cacti. They’re dormant, they’re not really growing, and a bit of winter stress is good for them. 

Most of my succulents really wake up around now, and anything in a pot gets regular water. The Adeniums and Pachypodium all get brought into the greenhouse after a summer outdoors, and are kept sheltered and dry from winter rains. The Euphorbias are almost all having a party right around now, and the Stapeliads are tapering off their blooms. 

Water and Fertilizer? 

No water for cacti for most of the month. If we get a freak hot day of 80F+, they may get a splash, but I usually just leave them. 

Conversely, any soft succulent is thirsty and happy to grow right around now, and appreciates regular water and fertilizer. I try not to feed my winter growers when frost is likely, so they get their feeding front-loaded starting now. 

December

The cacti slumber, and at most, I splash them if we have a few days in a row of sunshine and highs in the 70s and 80s. I moisten the soil for the winter dormant plants to prevent dessication of the roots. If left entirely dry for the entire winter, I have a higher risk of roots dying off and rotting come springtime. 

If we’re lucky, we start getting rain around now, and all of my in-ground succulents look their best. The cold nights make the soft succulents blush beautiful hues, and the aloes start producing bloom stalks everywhere. I love having aloes in my in-ground garden for this reason; they bloom all winter and the hummingbirds love them!

Water and Fertilizer? 

I only offer water to my succulents or euphorbias grown under shelter and unable to get water or dew from the environment. This is about when I taper off fertilizing, depending on the nighttime lows – as they reach 40F or below, I stop feeding. 

January

For me, this is the coldest month of the year, with February close behind. I have my biggest frost risk this time of year, so I make sure the cacti in the greenhouse are bone dry. 

In a good year, the outdoor plants are getting regular rainfall, which can be touch and go for the in-ground cacti. Some years, there’s no rain at all, but I won’t run my sprinkler unless the succulents look really sad. If it’s been raining, the Dudleyas are just starting to wake up. No rain? Dudleys may still be asleep, despite being winter growers! 

Water and Fertilizer? 

I may water my stapeliads in the greenhouse a couple times this month, and I’ll at least check on the Euphorbias. I keep an eye out for frost warnings, and if it’s likely to be below 35 during the week, I’ll hold off on water. 

If there’s a frost warning, I may cover my Aloe susannae to protect it, but that’s about it. 

Sowing Seeds

No seeds to sow in early winter; when I post my mesemb guide, you’ll see the seed-sowing never completely stops…but for the cacti, this is when I get a break. 

Sowing Seeds

In January I may start some of my slower germinating cactus species (Ariocarpus, Discocactus, Notocactus) and give them extra time indoors with a grow light before moving them outside in March. It’s mandatory to use a seedling mat this time of year, and with days being so short, just about everything takes longer to pop out. 

Monthly Chore Breakdown

Month-by-month list of what I do each month to maintain the greenhouse and garden.

January

Weather:

Average high temperature: 69F
Average low temperature: 43F
Average rainfall: 3″

Frost Risk – between 2 and 10 nights 

Chores:

  • Chop & propagate Aeoniums
  • Trim and propagate any ground-cover style succulents: ice plant, sedums, crassula, etc.
  • Divide any clumping succulents to spread out – Echeverias in particular
  • Plant any winter-growing aloes in-ground
  • Lots of weeding
  • Add Sluggo to new plantings, and an extra sprinkle around the Echeverias 
  • On a dry week when nothing is being watered, spray all non-blooming greenhouse plants with Talstar (contact-based pesticide to prevent mealies, spidermites, ants, etc, and keeps black widows out)
  • Finish Talstar treatment day with a perimeter spray of the INTERIOR of the greenhouse to prevent ants
  • Near the end of the month, sow my first tray of cactus seeds
  • No water for in-ground plants unless it’s been an exceptionally dry winter (no rainfall at all)
February

Weather:

Average high temperature: 69F
Average low temperature: 45F
Average rainfall: 3.5″

Frost Risk – Between 2 and 10 nights

Chores:

  • Divide any potted aloes that have become overgrown
  • Repot any Euphorbia that have become overgrown
  • Check greenhouse daily for any Ariocarpus blooms; pollinate and tag the blooms
  • Early Mammillaria and Neochilenia plants should start blooming, pollinate
  • If no frost warning likely for the week, water the blooming cacti, Euphorbia, and aloes
  • Fertilize the aloes
  • Sow another tray of cactus seeds, move the previous tray off the seedling mat
March

Weather:

Average high temperature: 71F
Average low temperature: 47F
Average rainfall: 2.5″

Frost Risk – at most 2 nights

Chores:

  • Weed the outdoor plants
  • Mulch the outdoor plants if no other weed cover is present
  • Check for mealies, scale, spidermites, etc outdoors – any that are not blooming get sprayed with an outdoor treatment that lasts up to 14 days
  • Check aloes for aloe mite – any inexpensive aloes get dug up and thrown out
  • Treat any non-blooming aloes with Kontos as an aloe mite preventative (especially tree aloes)
  • Water everything in the greenhouse at least once
  • Begin pollinating any cacti that are blooming (I typically see: Rebutia, Astrophytum, Turbinocarpus, Ariocarpus, Pilosocereus, Neochilenia, Matucana, Mammillaria, Obregonia, Melocactus, Sulcorebutia)
  • More seed sowing if I have room
April

Weather:

Average high temperature: 75F
Average low temperature: 51F
Average rainfall: 1.5″

No Frost Risk, No Heat Wave Risk

Chores:

  • Weed the outdoor plants
  • Water the greenhouse at least once, maybe twice
  • Stapeliads & aloes get at least one more watering
  • Nearly all cacti are blooming, and I pollinate those I’m interested in seed from (I’ve seen: Echinopsis, Astrophytum, Sulcorebutia, Rebutia, Mammillaria, Notocactus, Thelocactus, Echinocereus, Discocactus, Ferocactus, Opuntia, Pilosocereus, Gymnocalycium, Copiapoa, Glandulicactus, Acanthocalycium, Echinocactus, Echinomastus)
  • More seed sowing if I have room
  • If there’s been no rainfall for at least a month, I check my in-ground plants – Aloes & soft succulents will usually need water at least once
  • Any new cacti being planted in-ground can start to be added now 
May

Weather:

Average high temperature: 78F
Average low temperature: 55F
Average rainfall: 0.25″

Extremely Low Heat Wave Risk

Chores:

  • Weed the outdoor plants
  • Water entire greenhouse at least twice
  • Water stapeliads & aloes more; begin to spot-water “thirstier” cactus species, especially those producing fruits
  • Fertilize greenhouse cacti once
  • Continued cacti blooming, and I pollinate those I’m interested in seed from (I’ve seen: Echinopsis, Astrophytum, Sulcorebutia, Rebutia, Mammillaria, Notocactus, Thelocactus, Echinocereus, Discocactus, Ferocactus, Opuntia, Pilosocereus, Gymnocalycium, Copiapoa, Glandulicactus, Acanthocalycium, Echinocactus, Echinomastus, Eriosyce, Lobivia, Pygmaeocereus)
  • Repot any cacti I plan on showing at the club meeting no later than the first week of May
  • Trim any Opuntia that need it, propagate if desired
  • More seed sowing if I have room; move the first batch of seed from January out to the greenhouse if I haven’t already
  • If no rain, start watering outdoor plants every other week with a deep water (sprinkler running for 30 to 60 minutes in the evening)
  • Best month to add new cacti in-ground, especially if there’s no rain predicted for at least a week 
June

Weather:

Average high temperature: 82F
Average low temperature: 58F
Average rainfall: 0.12″

Mild Heat Wave Risk

Chores:

  • Give up on keeping up on the outdoor weeds
  • Water greenhouse roughly once a week
  • Keep full watering can in the greenhouse; refill seedling water trays mid-week
  • Fertilize greenhouse cacti with each watering
  • Continued cacti blooming, and I pollinate those I’m interested in seed from (I’ve seen: Echinopsis, Astrophytum, Sulcorebutia, Rebutia, Mammillaria, Notocactus, Thelocactus, Echinocereus, Discocactus, Ferocactus, Opuntia, Pilosocereus, Gymnocalycium, Copiapoa, Glandulicactus, Acanthocalycium, Echinocactus, Echinomastus, Eriosyce, Lobivia, Pygmaeocereus)
  • Repot any cacti that need it; Copiapoa, Astrophytum, Ariocarpus all should be repotted early in the summer
  • More seed sowing if I have room; move the first batch of seed from January out to the greenhouse if I haven’t already
  • Water outdoor plants weekly, sprinkler soak for 30 – 60 minutes in the evening for a deep soak
  • If there’s going to be a cloudy week, squeeze in another perimeter spray treatment with Talstar
  • Check the Stapeliads – treat any that aren’t blooming with the shrub pesticide (mealybugs LOVE them and it’s important to stay ahead of them)
  • Last month I actively try to create new in-ground cactus and succulent plantings, most often this is when I dig up and rearrange plants or divide any in-ground cacti to propagate. 
July

Weather:

Average high temperature: 87F
Average low temperature: 62F
Average rainfall: 0.08″

Heat Wave Risk – 1 – 7 days above 95F likely

Chores:

  • Laugh at the weeds as they die from the heat
  • Water greenhouse roughly once a week
  • Keep full watering can in the greenhouse; refill seedling water trays mid-week, newly added seedlings may need a misting in the morning for the first week
  • Fertilize greenhouse cacti with each watering
  • Blooming tapers sharply to only a handful of species (I’ve seen: Gymnocalycium, Copiapoa, Astrophytum, Coryphantha, Echinopsis, Leuchtenbergia, Discocactus, large outdoor columnars like Cereus and Pilosocereus, and maybe a couple trailing Mammillaria)
  • Divide any clumping cacti to propagate, repot anything that needs it
  • Last batch of seed sowing, if any, but begin moving started seeds out into the greenhouse in earnest
  • Water outdoor plants weekly, sprinkler soak for 30 – 60 minutes in the evening for a deep soak
  • If the temperatures jump from high 70s and low 80s to 90+ in one week, cover the more delicate or small cacti and succulents with shade cloth for a few days
August

Weather:

Average high temperature: 89F
Average low temperature: 63F
Average rainfall: 0.08″

High Heat Wave Risk – 7+ days above 95F likely; 5+ days above 100F likely

Chores:

  • Water greenhouse roughly once a week – twice for the aloes/stapeliads if it’s been a week of 100+ days
  • Keep full watering can in the greenhouse; refill seedling water trays as often as needed 
  • Fertilize greenhouse plants once, maybe 
  • Blooming continues similarly to July (I’ve seen: Gymnocalycium, Copiapoa, Astrophytum, Coryphantha, Discocactus)
  • All seedlings should be outside by now; any remaining indoors are hardened in the shade by the house before moving to the greenhouse 
  • Water outdoor plants weekly, sprinkler soak for 30 – 60 minutes in the evening for a deep drink
September

Weather:

Average high temperature: 87F
Average low temperature: 62F
Average rainfall: 0.21″

Heat Wave Risk – 2 – 5 days above 95F likely

Chores:

  • Water greenhouse once a week at most, usually every other week
  • Any seedlings still in water trays should have the water trays removed; time to harden them for growing regularly 
  • If fertilizing, only aloes or stapeliads (usually no fertilizer) 
  • Blooming becomes sporadic (I’ve seen: Gymnocalycium, Copiapoa, Coryphantha, Astrophytum, Discocactus, Matucana, miniature Mammillaria, large columnars outdoors)
  • Water outdoor plants every other week at most, sprinkler soak for 30 – 60 minutes in the evening for a deep drink
October

Weather:

Average high temperature: 81F
Average low temperature: 55F
Average rainfall: 0.71″

Low Heat Wave Risk 

Chores:

  • Water greenhouse every other week at most
  • All seedlings are removed from water trays, maybe get fertilizer when watered once or twice (to encourage growth/size before cold weather moves in)
  • Blooming is still sporadic, but Ariocarpus make a sudden appearance (I’ve seen: Ariocarpus, Astrophytum Gymnocalycium, Copiapoa, Matucana, Turbinocarpus, miniature Mammillaria, large columnars & Ferocactus outdoors)
  • Stapeliads may have started blooming earlier (hybrids often bloom all summer), but the true species all start to bloom again and again through October.
  • Water outdoor plants once; twice if it’s been a hot month
November

Weather:

Average high temperature: 74F
Average low temperature: 48F
Average rainfall: 1.17″

Very low risk of either heat wave or frost

Chores:

  • Beginning of month, treat perimeter with Talstar
  • Check for mealies, etc. Treat any non-blooming cacti early in month with a systemic pesticide before they really go dormant for winter 
  • Water whole greenhouse once
  • Water stapeliads/aloes every other week, maybe more if it’s 80+ during the day 
  • Seedlings watered weekly – potentially add yellow sticky traps to watch for fungus gnats (if gnats, then reduce watering to ensure they dry out for at least 2 days before watering again) 
  • Ariocarpus continue to be the stars, but other blooms are rare. The occasional Astrophytum will throw off a last hurrah if it’s a warm month (I’ve seen: Ariocarpus, Gymnocalycium, Turbinocarpus, Copiapoa, Mammillaria)
  • Stapeliads are really putting on a show by now 
  • If no rain for November, water outdoor plants once, maybe 
December

Weather:

Average high temperature: 68F
Average low temperature: 42F
Average rainfall: 1.17″

Mild risk of frost; unlikely 

Chores:

  • All cacti stay dry – maybe splash the Discocactus and Melocactus a bit when I’m tending to the mesembs
  • Aloes, Euphorbia & stapeliads get watered every other week, fertilizer if I remember
  • Water seedlings once or twice, if they look stressed (dark color, wrinkling) 
  • No more cactus blooms, although the Melocactus really starts spitting fruit out like crazy 
  • Stapeliads continue to bloom like crazy, they appreciate regular water and even some fertilizer 
  • Aloes start to bloom, especially true species grown outdoors 
  • Massonia start to bloom, are included in the water schedule
  • Aeoniums are fully awake and appreciate water 
  • If it’s a cold, wet December, Dudleya start to wake up – in recent years, this has been too early for mine